Incredible India – 3 weeks in lavish luxury

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20 Night Indian Excursion Itinerary

India and a cartoon depiction of debbie allen our blogger extraordinaire flaunting all that is bollywood

After looking at various countries for a surprise 50th Birthday trip decided to go with India purely based on Jon loving the novel Shantaram and wanting to go to Kathmandu! I must admit it has never been on my wish list but memories of seeing houseboats in Kashmir on the TV and watching Jewel in the Crown years ago started the search although we did not go to Kathmandu or Kashmir! I found a trip report which sounded very close to what I was looking for so I contacted Louise Nicholson and we thrashed out an itinerary. Jon knew he was going to India about 2 weeks beforehand but had no idea throughout where we were heading next.

I cannot recommend Louise highly enough, she listened to what I wanted, changed things around to suit and made sure that every hotel was checked that they could provide smoking rooms and areas. Nothing went wrong with what she had arranged, it was a couple of my choices that proved a problem and the company she uses in India dealt with these problems quickly. We never felt pressured to go on all the sightseeing, places were recommended and it was left with us to discuss with the local guides. Louise also provides detailed information on what to pack, tips and a wonderful shopping guide which gave us the opportunity to purchase some beautiful items.

Getting the visas was not straightforward from Phuket but managed to pay to have someone deal with them in Bangkok, the saving grace of living here! Now UK citizens can get the online visa so this problem is no longer.

Throughout the trip we were met at each airport by the local agent and driver and then we had a separate guide during our stay in each place, all were excellent.

We flew Jet Airways and Air India on internal flights, there was not much to chose between them but Jet have now gone unfortunately.

I choose Jet Airways for the flight from Bangkok to Mumbai as Malaysian had just had the missing plane and reports on Air India were not good and Thai business was not up to much then. The flight out with Jet was good, the seats in business were not as advertised as it was a small old plane but the food was excellent as was the service. The return flight was dreadful, even older plane with bad seats, food was poor but the service was again good. 

Day 1- Mumbai - 3 nights

One thing you will always remember flying into Mumbai is passing over the slums which seem to go on forever.

Getting through the airport was fairly easy although slow and we were met by the agent. Driving through Mumbai was an experience and the city was very different from what we imagined, your head is twisting and turning continually...lots to take in!

The hotel looked very impressive and after checking in and being given instructions for the next morning, we unpacked, explored the hotel and had a quick walk outside before ordering room service and passing out.

Read More about The Taj Mahal Palace

 

 

Day 2 - Downtown, Crawford Market and Museums

After an excellent breakfast we met our guide for the next two days and were driven to the downtown area.

Historic Buildings

Walking Tour of the historic downtown area close to the hotel to include the 18th century Fort area starting with the Town Hall which is now the Asiatic Society and I remember standing in the gardens listening to the first lot of information we would need to take in. Then onto Horniman Circle which is similar to Bath in the UK, the Cathedral of St Thomas with monuments by Bacon and then onto the Sassoon Library.  Don’t miss the Victorian Public Buildings (Law Courts, University Senate, Convocation Hall), I was amazed at the architecture and finally the Victoria Terminus which is stunning.  The parks and wide boulevards were a surprise even though in disrepair.

 

Lunch at Trishna

We had a very nice lunch in a tiny air conditioned restaurant called Trishna which did not look very inspiring to start with but the food was excellent, you do need to book it was busy. A quick walk around this area while waiting for the driver caused a stir and we were soon being followed by a group of children begging but easily dealt with.

 

 

Dr Lad Museum, Washing Area and Crawford Market

Drove out to the Dr Lad Museum which was not quite what was expected, it is formerly the V & A Museum which possibly made me think it would be similar to the one in London, perhaps try the Prince of Wales Museum instead.  We then drove all the way back stopping at the famous Washing Area which is a good photo opp and then onto the Crawford Market. Mangos everywhere due to the season and a pervading smell of spices made a nice change to the bad smelling markets in Thailand. We then negotiated the traffic on foot to head through the Buleshwar Market towards a temple but this was cut short by losing Jon who had stopped to take a photo of a cow which had decided it was not very happy with him.  This is when the atmosphere seemed to change and we started to feel uncomfortable so back to the hotel.

 

After a nice meal at the restaurant by the pool we retired to bed ready for an early start the next day.

Day 3 - Elephanta Island, Marine Drive and a bit of Shopping

Egyptian museum cairo egypt tutankhamen mask and coffin controversial Akhenaten statues and much more
Tutankamen's famous mask with his gold coffin in the background and statue of the controversial and fascinating Akhenaten
main entrance to the Egyptian museum, Cairo with sphinx replica in the foreground. Unforutantely the location of the horrific tourist massacre in 1997
Entrance to the Egyptian Museum Cairo
One of the main halls in all its shambolic glory

Luckily the ferries for Elephanta Island leave from the India Gate so just a short walk over the road after another excellent breakfast.  It was not a pleasant experience getting on the boat with the rough sea and then it  takes an hour to get there weaving through the large ships moored up in the bay.  Once at the island it is then around a 20 minute walk to get up the hill to the temple, you can go further if you wish.  We just went round the first temple cave which was interesting.

We then caught the ferry back and drove up Marine Drive with its Art Deco buildings and past the Parsees' Towers of Silence, which had been fascinating Jon since the guide had told us about them, to the park overlooking the bay.  You get great views from here and we became the centre of attention for the local Indian tourists who wanted their photo taken with us.  Jon then spent a long time trying to get photos of vultures that may have visited the Towers next door.

The rest of the day was spent shopping in the local area and later we ventured out to buy beer, which was not an easy process with Jon disappearing into a local pub while I stood chatting to the huge bouncer on the door, and then for an indian takeaway from a very popular street restaurant Bademiya. The hotel security did not bat an eyelid as our carrier bags got scanned. This turned out to be one of the best meals we had in India!

 

Mumbai Conclusion

Mumbai was a surprise and more than expected, a lot to see and would recommend longer than 2 nights, I think we missed a lot.  Colaba is a great location and convenient for a lot of the sightseeing plus some really nice shops and restaurants there especially around the back of the Taj so easy to walk out by yourself with no issues.

 

I would certainly return.

Read More about Mumbai

 

Day 4 - Delhi, Agra and the baby Taj!

The Winter Palace at Luxor exterior and the Grand Staircase from where Carter announced the discovery of Tutankhamens Tomb

 

Early breakfast and off to Delhi. The agent was with us up until we entered the airport and he arranged for luggage handlers to then take us onto the check in desks as he was not allowed in. We were not aware that this had been paid for in advance so we ended up paying the two luggage handlers again plus we got hit for excess luggage which was a nightmare throughout the trip! The luggage handlers in Goa tried the same trick. 

After the short flight we were met by another agent and introduced to the driver who would take us down to Agra. It is a boring journey even with the couple of rest stops and we were glad to met up with our guide and taken to the ‘baby’ Taj…The Tomb of Itmad ud Daula and then onto the Mehtab Bagh garden to see the sunset looking at the Taj Mahal from the other side of the river. I would recommend both especially the gardens, the views of the Taj and Agra Fort at this time are superb, lots of photos taken.

On to our hotel, the Amarvilas - changed to this hotel at the last minute and it was worth every penny.  After a quick change and dragging ourselves off the balcony we went to eat in the Indian restaurant which was excellent.

Read More about The Oberoi Amarvilas

 

Day 5 - Taj Mahal & Agra Fort

The nightly Light and Sound show at Karnak Temple

Taj Mahal at sunrise….what can I say…stunning.

I did question going to Agra as thought may be too touristy but in May it wasn’t very busy, hardly anyone there and no queues. Even with masses of tourists it definitely should be done!

When you enter the Tomb you will see the cenotaphs of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal, hers stands in the centre of the inner chamber but they then put his at the side which ruins the symmetry! The bodies are in the crypts below. The whole complex is very peaceful and it is easy to spend a few hours here.

We returned to the hotel for breakfast before going on to the Agra Fort which is definitely worth doing especially to see the views of the Taj from the Musamman Burj where Shah Jahan lay to see the Taj from his deathbed.  There is a lot to see here and the guide was needed to explain everything.

We then visited a Pieta Dura crafts shop in town and bought a small box as a reminder, some lovely items here but expensive!

Agra itself was dirty and dusty and the state of the horses and donkeys was upsetting but could not get any answers about rescue centres for the ones that were in a terrible state.

Don't bother asking if there are any other local crafts here, we were taken to an obvious tourist shop (not on Louise's lists) and it was very difficult to get out of there politely.

Read More about Agra

 

Day 6 - Back to Delhi

The most perfect craft to cruise the Nile aboard - especially if you are the only two guests!

We were due to go to the Bharakpur Bird Sanctuary and Fatehpur Sikri today before heading back to Delhi but unfortunately I went overboard on the free cocktails and sparkling wine the night before (they kept serving after happy hour is my excuse) plus the guides advised that not many birds would be seen this time of year and that it would be quite a few hours drive in the wrong direction….so late check out and back to Delhi. Do consider the train for this journey as again it was extremely boring.

Not enough time to see anything of Delhi so spent the night at the J W Marriott near the airport, another very nice, modern hotel and excellent breakfast. We met up with the owner of the tour company here as he wanted to check all was going as planned and he insisted on refunding the cost of the luggage handlers. 

Read More J W Marriott

Day 7 - Nagaur

A bucket list experience if ever there was one! detail from tomb of Seti I

Early morning flight to Jodphur and a two hour drive north to stay for one night at the Ranvas Hotel set inside the Ahhichatragarh Fort in the ancient city of Nagaur.

Suggested by Louise, this looked so unusual that it had to be done.  The town itself was again dusty and hectic and then you suddenly turn into a narrow arched gateway which in turn opens up to a large open space. with the palaces set in the middle.

At the palace entrance you are taken through courtyards and narrow alleyways to the Queens’ palace which is now the hotel.

We were given an early evening guided walk of the fort walls and it was very strange to be standing on top of the fort walls in this quiet oasis in the middle of a noisy bustling town with neon signs everywhere, definitely take advantage of this tour. I could not go all the way round (fear of heights) but Jon did while I followed on the dirt road below, not a good idea when it got dark especially as I had to pass the cows which always decide I am of great interest!

Read More about Ranvas

 

Day 8 - Mihir Garh

The Temple of Edfu

The next morning we had breakfast on the terrace with peacocks surrounding us…amazing! Then a tour of the rest of the fort which was originally built in the 2nd century and then again in the 12th century and is one of the first Mughal strongholds.

Apparently the Sufi music festival that they hold here every year should not be missed, artists come in from all over the world.

The previous evening we had noticed what looked like a shrouded body close to the fort entrance, this was confirmed as we drove out!

After lunch we started back to Jodhpur stopping at the Animal Hospital which takes in ill and injured cows, deers etc and works from donations, well worth a stop and donation! Managed to find a shop for wine and beer and onto Mihir Garh which is about an hour the other side of Jodhpur.  I had added this hotel to the itinerary after reading about it on the trip report.

The hotel is a newly built fort in the desert with nine rooms and they also breed Marwari horses. From the town of Rohan you drive out into the desert through a local village and suddenly a fort appears!

What can I say….book it!  The rooms are beautiful and it is so peaceful, no sounds of traffic and no lights in the distance. Jon went off for a walk around the grounds and said it was one of the best parts of the trip.

Read More about Mihir Garh

Day 9 - A Ride in the Desert

View of Aswan from the South, Guided tour of the High Dam and a Nubian Vase from the Museum
The Entrance pylons to Philae Temple

We had booked a royal picnic for today but again due to the season this was not available but they said we could go riding if we were experienced!

Jon is not keen on horses but I spent most of my childhood on a pony so I was given permission, what I failed to mention was that I had not been on a horse for over 30 years but I figured it is like riding a bike! I was driven back to Rohan where they have another hotel and stables and then you ride out into the desert area.

This was an amazing experience BUT I soon realised that yes the brain remembers how to ride but the body could no longer do so! Just about managed to slide off without collapsing at the end and was in total agony for the next 5 days! 

Day 10 - Village Safari, Tea with the Elders and on to Jodphur

The Old Wing of the Hotel from the Nile

We went on the village safari this morning to see the local wildlife and a visit to a local family's farm for tea which certainly highlights the difference in lifestyles.  Next stop was the village to sit with a group of village elders and do drugs but unfortunately no effect on the aches and pains! We were given some unusual cigarettes by the elders so stopped at the local village shop to buy some and were immediately surrounded by children so finally got to distribute our postcards of Thailand which they loved, Louise had suggested bringing these. Also this was a great photo opportunity.

After lunch and a sad goodbye to the wonderful staff, we went drove back to Jodhpur to stay at the Umaid Bhawan Palace.

This was a last minute change as the Raas was undergoing renovations but we did have the most spectacular welcome which was hilarious and slightly embarrassing as we were both still in shorts and T shirts from the morning safari and slightly dusty. The entrance steps were filled with the brass band and what appeared to be every member of staff waiting to greet us along with our guide for Jodhpur.  At least Jon had taken off his bandana beforehand.

You definitely feel as if you are in a palace, a very beautiful hotel with wonderful gardens looking down over Jodhpur and impeccable service.  After discussing the planned tours for the next day we explored the hotel and gardens before having a superb dinner at The Pillars.

Read More about Umaid Bhawan Palace

Day 11 - Mehrangarh Fort & Shopping at the Markets

Morning sightseeing started with a trip out to an excellent local dhurrie weaver who turned out to be quite a character, no excuse not to buy a rug when he produced a credit card machine and we were literally in the middle of nowhere! We decided to miss out the village elders and partaking of drugs again so some quick stops for ornaments and jewellery before heading to the Mehrangarh Fort, an impressive red sandstone fort overlooking the city below and full of beautiful palaces. Our guide was excellent and made the information on everything interesting and memorable.

Bought a load of leather coloured slippers, shirts and picture from the Fort shops and found out later that we should have continued walking down into the city but it was felt that would not have been good for me as at this point I was still in agony! We also missed the Batman bit so good excuse to go back!

Returned to the hotel to chill round the pool and then an early evening trip to the markets with cocktails and dinner at Pal Haveli. This was the best market area so far, bought far too much, bangles, bedcovers and runners. Pal Haveli was closed although it had been booked so went to a suggested alternative which was busy with locals.

  Read More about Jodhpur

Day 12 - Udaipur

Ancient Quarry in Aswan housing the Unfinished Obelisk

After another wonderful breakfast time to leave and we were both given lovely gifts on departure. We really enjoyed the stay here but I would still like to stay at the Raas if we come back. 

Time to drive to Udaipur with a stop at Ranakpur, the stunning Jain temple which is exquisite. We met our next guide here and again he was very good if somewhat of a character.

I had chosen The Leela Hotel overlooking Lake Pichola as tomorrow would be Jon’s 50th birthday and had also booked the club package to get a trip on the lake and a special meal at a private dining area. The hotel website looked really good plus there were excellent reviews but.....

You have to catch the boat over to the hotel (although there is a back entrance) and again were greeted with rose petals and a musician, not quite up to the standard of the last one! We were shown up to our room which was nice but small, we had a lake view but it was non smoking.

We also had a lovely cake waiting congratulating us on our anniversary! A few phone calls later and they decided we could smoke on the balcony which was not big enough for a chair. A room with a bigger balcony would be available in a day or two!

Without going into detail, the evening meal was a disaster and the service was dreadful so after sightseeing the next day it was arranged for us to move over to The Oberoi Udaivilas which is far superior in every respect, beautiful room overlooking the pool and lake and again the service was impeccable, the staff made us feel extremely welcome and they even managed to give Jon a birthday gift.

Day 13 - A Bit of Shopping and a Local Bar Experience

The Four Seasons Nile Plaza Hotel - Luxury & Style, with Eggs Benedict to die for
The Four Seasons Nile Plaza Hotel - Luxury & Style, with Eggs Benedict to die for

Both our guide and our wonderful driver presented Jon with presents and flowers and we had a relaxed day visiting recommended local craftsmen and a few galleries throughout the city before being taken to a local bar for drinks with our guide.  

Most of the afternoon was taken up with moving over to the Oberoi which we managed just in time for Happy Hour and then an exceptional dinner overlooking the lake. 

Read More about Oberoi Udaivilas

Day 14 - City Palace & The Royal Car Collection

Giza Plateau quad biking in the desert with the Great Pyramids and Cairo in the distance
Seeing the Great Pyramids from the other side with some exhilarating quad Bike fun to boot!

Morning sightseeing at the City Palace including the royal car collection and the cut glass collection.

By this time we were a bit jaded so probably did not appreciate the Palace as much as we should have but the views over the lake are wonderful. The glass collection was not really quality cut glass, apparently they had never seen anyone go round so fast, but the Royal Car Collection was interesting.  We returned to the hotel after some shopping on the road leading to the palace.

It was our intention to drive out to Devigarh hotel for dinner tonight but was advised against this so Devi booked a restaurant overlooking the lake which he recommended, again good and a lovely setting but not as good as the food at the Oberoi.

Day 15 - Afternoon Tea on the Lake

Giza Plateau quad biking in the desert with the Great Pyramids and Cairo in the distance
Seeing the Great Pyramids from the other side with some exhilarating quad Bike fun to boot!

A relaxing morning driving round the lake with our driver recommending a stop for very sweet local coffee and a chat with locals who wanted to know all about Phuket property. Another walk around the town before going back to the hotel for an Afternoon Tea on Lake Pichola arranged by the hotel, this has to be the best afternoon tea we have had and highly recommend doing this as it is a great way to see the city.

Just enough room for another wonderful dinner at the hotel and a walk around the gardens.

Read More about Udaipur

Day 16 - Goa

Giza Plateau quad biking in the desert with the Great Pyramids and Cairo in the distance
Seeing the Great Pyramids from the other side with some exhilarating quad Bike fun to boot!

Very sad to leave Udaipur and this amazing hotel and to say goodbye to our excellent driver who had been with us since arriving in Rajasthan but on to the airport for an afternoon flight down to Mumbai and connection to Goa.

Udaipur airport is small and not much in there plus security was strict.

We arrived in Goa late at night and were driven to The Leela which I hoped would be better than the last one, unfortunately not!  It does have a good location right on the beach in Cavelossim but is a large impersonal hotel.  This was supposed to be a relaxing end to our holiday with only a few days sightseeing.

Read More about The Leela Goa

 

Days 17 to 20 - Panaji, Margao & Old Mansions

Giza Plateau quad biking in the desert with the Great Pyramids and Cairo in the distance
Seeing the Great Pyramids from the other side with some exhilarating quad Bike fun to boot!

We had two days of sightseeing arranged for Goa and to be perfectly honest it was a waste of time, the place is extremely dirty, rubbish everywhere, I did not find the food that good and a lot of things had closed down for the season. The Portuguese mansions were closed except for one which was in a dreadful state, missed out the seminary, went to Panaji and Margao and then onto a spice farm which was about the most interesting thing to do.

Did pick up some T shirts, cotton clothes and silver but other than that it is much the same stuff as in Thailand although cheaper in Goa! 

We ate at a local restaurant a few minutes walk from the hotel entrance nearly every night as this was the only option within walking distance.

So in general very disappointed in Goa and really wished I had not chosen to go, perhaps it would be better in another area and in season.

We flew back to Mumbai 5 days later to catch the flight back to Bangkok. We had a few hours to kill and decided to just go straight to the new airport which is very impressive, the business class lounge is very good and there are some really unusual shops.

Read More about Goa

Conclusion

Enjoyed everywhere we went with the exception of Goa, the hotels were top class, food both indian and western was great and no problems either, the people are so friendly, want to talk to you and have their photo taken with you and there is so much to see.

Hotel wise our favourites were the Oberoi in Udaipur and Mihir Garh, the rooms and particularly the service is far in front of Thailand and even possibly better than Singapore and KL comparing similar standard hotels (with the exception of The Leela brand which I will not use again).

Cash wise we found most of it went on the tips for the driver and guides plus excessive luggage charges, we changed either dollars or baht at the hotels and we only used a currency exchange in Udaipur. We used credit cards to pay the hotel bills and you can use them for the luggage charges as well.

It was easy to get any required medication plus wine and beer with the help of the guide or driver. We are very used to be able to buy almost any medicine etc over the counter in Thailand and it seemed the same there.

Dress wise - although you can dress up in these hotels it did not seem to matter if you didn't, perhaps again it was due to end of season. We did take too much luggage but if you are happy to pay the steep charges then no issue. 

Internet we got free at all hotels but some only gave an hour free and we did not bother getting a sim, it was great to stick the phones in the safe and forget about them!

 

I started planning our next trip to India as soon as we got back!

Louise Nicholson - India

For anyone wanting a tour of India then Louise is the person to go to...highly recommended

 

Gripes and Moans

None except for The Leela in Udaipur and Goa.

 

Once you have been to India you will have to go back!

Follow Debbie Allen:
Hi! Welcome to my life... travel is a lifelong hobby, bucket lists get longer... that's the whole joy of them! Originally from the UK I have now lived in Phuket, Thailand since 2008 and run a dream holiday rental agency on the island. In my free time I travel and thought it about time to share experiences, tips, do and dont's along with cherished memories and beautiful photographs - I hope you enjoy taking a digital trip alongside me and that you will emerge the other side with some new destinations in mind...

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